![]() ![]() If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.Ĭaution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.ġ0. Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.Ĩ. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.ħ. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.Ħ. Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on the J 43485. Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555, or equivalent. Some manual transmission equipped vehicles have a combined brake and clutch fluid reservoir.ĥ. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.Ĥ. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.Ģ. Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal.ġ. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement in Computers and Control Systems.ħ. Remove the shop towel and discard in a suitable container.Ħ. Install the reservoir line in the clutch master cylinder.ĥ. Connect the clutch damper to the clutch master cylinder.Ĥ. ![]() Uncap the reservoir and hydraulic lines.ģ. Important: While installing, ensure that the clutch master cylinder pushrod is aligned with he clutch pedal.Ģ. Install the clutch master cylinder while rotating 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Rotate the clutch master cylinder one 1/4 turn clockwise and remove the cylinder from the vehicle.ġ. Cap the reservoir and hydraulic lines in order to prevent fluid loss and contamination.Ĩ. Disconnect the reservoir line from clutch master cylinder.ħ. Disconnect the clutch damper from the clutch master cylinder.Ħ. Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in Service Precautions.ĥ. Place a shop towel under the clutch master cylinder in order to catch any fluid loss. Pull the clutch pedal upward in order to disengage the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.Ĥ. Remove the clutch pedal retainer from the front of the clutch pedal assembly.Ģ. All attached pictures will correlate with these directions as indicated.ġ. After that, I will provide the directions for bleeding the system. Read through them to confirm you did it correctly. With that, I am going to provide all the steps for replacing the part. It takes a delicate touch to get the clutch just right, so somebody that is ham-fisted or lazy can easily wreck the clutch in short order.I have a feeling you didn't get the push rod properly installed. Something to note- this car has a very light flywheel, and if you have the Stage II or higher kit it could be over 250 hp to the wheels: mine has head work and other mods so its pushing over 300 hp, and runs ~13.8 in the 1/4 mile. If it has LSD and/or the Competition Package (grey center wheels, boost gauge above the steering wheel) then that adds about $1,000 to the used price. If the car is otherwise in decent shape, then it would be worth repairing- my car has been quite reliable, 140k miles with original clutch, averages 28 mpg. Since this engine and trans was common to the Cobalt SS, you could get another estimate at a Chevy dealer and see how it compares. So given that info, I think the estimate you got is right on the money - 8-9 hours labor plus parts. They do not break down the difference on the on the M86 vs MU3 trans- one is LSD and the other is not LSD, so I think it just does not matter for purposes of clutch labor or parts. It looks like the transaxle must be R&R to replace the clutch disk, and replacing the pressure plate only adds. OEM Clutch disk is part 12589049 and indicates about $136. The mfg rate for a warranty repair is 4.3 hours, and standard rate is 8.1 hours. ![]() I also have an active AllDataDIY for this vehicle. ![]()
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